In Peru, ceviche is considered a national dish, but most central- and south-American countries, and also Mexico, have their own versions. The imperative for good ceviche is fresh fish or seafood. Really fresh. For Peruvians, ceviche is a lunch-time food. That’s when the fish is at its freshest. The early morning catch is the mid-day ceviche.
Shops and restaurants are everywhere, but if all you want is something light and refreshing, there’s nothing better than shaved ice. Select a fruit-flavored syrup. Watch the street vendor fill a large cup past the rim with ice shaved from a giant block, and drizzle it with your flavor of choice and a thin stream of coconut milk. Grab a straw, a long plastic spoon, and some napkins, and find a shady spot to sit. For $2 you have a treat you can spoon, slurp, and once you get a little farther down, stir.