Marseille Side Trip: An Earthy Contrast from Sophisticated Paris
By Dorothy Garabedian The ancient port city of Marseille sits on one of the world’s most beautiful bays. Greek colonists from Phocaea founded the city 2,600 years ago.
Since its discovery, Marseille has attracted migrations from many nations, near and far, emerging into a rich, intense, multicultural society. This intriguing Mediterranean city (population 840,000) has been described as gritty, boisterous, dangerous, and a mafia haven, among other unsavory terms. Now, the old descriptions are giving way to new ones, such as rediscovered, redefined, city-on-the-rise, colorful, lively, and authentic.
Why the change?
In 2008, Marseille was chosen as the 2013 European Capital of Culture. Millions of euros from government funds and major international investors are being poured into a grand plan to transform Marseille into a dazzling center of European culture. It is part of an expansive redevelopment initiative called the Euroméditerranée project, set for completion at the end of this decade. These projects have brought a large influx of people from northern France and other countries down to the south (popularly referred to as the Midi).
International star architects have designed impressive buildings while older structures and museums are undergoing refurbishment. New boutiques, galleries, and restaurants are opening up in rehabilitated areas around the Vieux Port (Old Port).
Local residents, however, are skeptical about this so-called renaissance, believing it will all fade away just as so many other projects have failed in the past. Their disbelief in Marseille’s future prosperity is also based on the city’s other ills, such as insufficient public security, infrastructure issues, and an unruly population.
Marseille’s citizens may be cynical about the grand plans set out for their city, but the fact is that Marseille is changing. Before it gets too sophisticated, a visit to this unique city should be on any traveler’s itinerary. After visiting pastel, elegant Paris, why not round out a French voyage with a contrasting visit to vibrant, earthy Marseille?
The Marseillais are quick to say that their city is spécial. In French this could mean exceptional or extraordinary. It could also mean peculiar or strange. It is the latter which the locals emphasize. Try not to expect things to go smoothly, and if they do, consider yourself lucky. More than likely you’ll have a mixed bag of experiences ranging from wonderful to exasperating, delightful to incredulous -- and even infuriating. That is all part of Marseille. Getting there is easy now with the high speed rail called the TGV. Leave in the morning from Paris and in three hours you will find yourself in the heart of Marseille for lunch at a café along the picturesque Vieux Port (or, in summer, picnicking on a rented boat and swimming in a secluded cove). You are almost certain to be basking in the sun, regardless of the season, as it shines in Marseille 300 days of the year.
Where to start
The Marseille Office of Tourism has an excellent tourism site in several languages (www.marseille-tourism.com). It is clear, complete, and very easy to navigate to find all the information you need to plan your visit. Whatever your interests, there are options to pursue them, and for every budget. But to experience Marseille, it’s best to have a flexible agenda.
Security
On weeknights half of the Vieux Port area is dark and deserted, especially around city hall (Mairie). During weekend evenings it is lively. The three safer areas are concentrated in three locations: Vieux Port Est (East), Cours Julien, Place Castellane, and -- for the warmer half of the year -- along the Corniche (beachfront).
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The perfect getaway from the daily grind, the Hole in the Wall Hotel and Holiday Village near Coffee Bay is hard to reach and hard to leave (not only due to bad roads).
The next day we heard about ‘little hole’ and decided to hike there. We were at it a few hours and got to ‘black rock’ where we saw fishermen and wonderful scenery. Unbeknown to us we were close to ‘little hole.’ We went back there the next morning with a couple we met, Val and Cynthia, in their powerful vehicle along the barest of tracks... up to a point. Then we walked a distance to finally see ‘little hole’ way down the sheer cliffs.
A food revolution is sweeping the nation... in the form of a new version of meals on wheels. Don’t confuse this with the charitable offering, good as that is. This one is being fostered by the food industry in the broadcasting world. Lots of “done over” Airstreams outfitted with restaurant quality kitchens instead of the sleeping and living areas and then gathered into one locale and serving up, to the often giddy public, a variety of ethnic choices... My, what a wonderfully “new” idea.
I have serendipitously stumbled across one I feel is unmatched in the area of Canyon Lake (and there are several to choose from): Taqueria Paty, with one “t.” Her real name is Patricia Soto, but when asked why the one “t” Paty responded she “just liked the look of it.” So... Taqueria Paty was born, just 1.6 miles south of FM 306 on US 281 in the parking lot of the Spring Branch Bowling Club. Breakfast fare is the big rush but at any time during open hours you will see a parking lot filled with a variety of vehicles from pickups filled with construction workers to Mercedeses with housewives and kids.
I’m driving through the splendor of one of the world’s largest arboretums, surrounded by the beauty of trees, shrubs, and plants collected from around the world, 1,700 acres of them, when I see a giant ant -- make that two -- no, three. They must be 10 feet tall! The monstrous ants posed on the hillside seem ready to stampede toward my vehicle. I whisk by them before they make their move. Later I’m wandering through the children’s garden when I spy another oversized insect, a grasshopper, and this time I’m on foot. But not to worry -- the mammoth insects are part of the David Rogers Big Bugs exhibition at the Morton Arboretum. Exhibits like Big Bugs, a hedge maze, an interactive children’s garden, and special themed activities, together with 16 miles of hiking trails, nine miles of paved roads for biking or driving, and even guided tram tours, make for a day of fun for people of all ages and with a variety of interests.
Serious plant enthusiasts and gardeners appreciate the 190,000 specimens in the Morton Arboretum’s collection, specialty gardens throughout natural landscapes, and guided walks. Active folks can rent bicycles in the summer and cross country skis in the winter. Kids have fun in the 4-acre garden created just for them, splashing in the frog fountain, playing instruments made from colossal flowers, or spinning a pot of pansies while peering at the dimensions they take on through a kaleidoscope. Family members race each other through the hedge maze, while others watch their progress from a platform built around a 60-foot-tall Sycamore tree.
If you walk too fast, you might miss it, and that would be a shame.
As Tedd, of Irish background and a native of Columbia, Missouri, is busy issuing guidance to clients, my companion and I spend several moments gazing around. I count over 60 miniature bottles on each of several wooden racks, each having a different oil inside, some with intriguing names: LSD, pink sugar, gardenia, honeysuckle, fig, cassis, sea mist, desert aloe, and big sun. There is also a jar of coffee beans to help clear nostrils. Behind us on a line of shelves standing against the wall are a wide selection of products made by Tedd and his staff -- bath salts, eye creams, scrub masks, foot lotions, facial toners, and aromatherapy preparations made from essences ranging from elder flower to rose hip, eucalyptus, pomegranate, and aloe vera. Nearby are soaps of all varieties -- glycerin, coconut milk, China musk, juicy peach, and white tea -- as well as scent sticks.
Tedd says his clientele is wide-ranging. “One day we might have the whole family here. The next, a husband and wife. Or a grandmother, mother, and granddaughter. Sometimes, retirees or young people on spring break. We regularly open in the evenings for special occasions, to cater for bridal showers or special birthdays where a group of close friends come in to create their own perfumes, drink champagne, and chat. There can be a lot of lively fun then. We can host up to 12 people for an event.”
When my wife and I started traveling to the Caribbean over 10 years ago, we agreed not to visit the same place twice -- to see as many islands and resorts as possible. Palm Island Resort in the Grenadines made us break that rule. We just returned from our second visit, and it won’t be our last.
I recommend Palm Island’s beachfront cottages but the Palm View Rooms are also a good option, and for a slightly higher level of luxury, try the Island Lofts. Each room has an air conditioner, but ceiling fans are usually all you need. Two beach loungers come with each room, so if you don’t want to walk down to the main beach you can enjoy the sun right outside your door. There’s also a table and chairs with an umbrella -- great for watching the sun set or for sipping your first cup of coffee in the morning.
The best is saved for last which happens to be my favorite -- Tiramisu. Adorned with sliced poached pear and mango, it does not disappoint. The feather-light sponge cake is soaked in the perfect amount of espresso. Layered with a creamy mascarpone blend and topped with ganache, every bite is a melt-in-your-mouth moment.
The Strand lies at the end of Gregory Street in Townsville, Australia’s suburb of North Ward. The area was developed after Tropical Cyclone Sid severely eroded the foreshore in January of 1998.
The attractions start with a marina and follow on to a waterfall, the Tobruk Memorial Baths, playgrounds (including a water feature), barbecues for public use, picnic tables with ample shade, plenty of grassed areas, safe swimming, a white sand beach, a pier great for fishing, and a seawater man-made lagoon, along with a good selection of cafes, bars, and restaurants.
All of this is accessed via a tree-lined walking path that runs the full length of this great family-friendly zone. Every weekend you will find it packed with families celebrating an event or just getting together for some fun and relaxing under the myriad of large shade trees. The water playground is a big hit with kids young and old, especially the giant tipping jug.
The yachting club holds regular events on the beach, creating a colorful sight as you look out to Magnetic Island in the distance. Tandem skydivers land on the beach, dropping out of the deep blue sky on the odd occasion. The path is popular with people exercising or just taking a leisurely stroll; either way the energy of the area is refreshing and uplifting -- a must to experience on your visit to Townsville.
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