By Barbara Law

Taxi from airport: 700 rupees (approximately US$13). Taxi to Boudhanath: 350 rupees. It all adds up and starts to eat into your travel budget. Why not take the local transportation? If you’re adventurous enough to try tuk-tuks and micros, they’re easy, fun, and cheap. Once you get the hang of it your wallet will thank you.

Here’s how:

Learn numbers. Devanagari is more straightforward than it looks. The number 14 (Patan Durbar, Monkey Temple, Jawalakhel Zoo) looks like a 98, 5 (U.S. Embassy, Lazimpat) like a Y with a curl. A 2 (Boudhanath) is a 2.

Orient yourself. Kathmandu is laid out in a reasonably uncomplicated way. Ratna Park, in the center of the city, is the hub from which most tuk-tuks and micros depart. Sundhara, on the park’s west perimeter, has signs posted with numbers and destinations. Work out on your map where you want to go.
 
Ask. Nepalis are nice. They’ll steer you in the right direction.

Flag the vehicle down anywhere along the road. It’ll stop. Tell the driver or conductor where you want to go.
 
Settle in for the duration. If you’re in a hurry, tuk-tuks are not your preferred choice. They whine up and down the street at the speed of an average trot.
 
Watch for your stop. Bang on the ceiling when you want to get out.

Pay. Reach in the front window and hand the driver your money. If you’re not sure, give a larger bill. Drivers don’t cheat.
 
Repeat.

Even if you get on the wrong bus and end up somewhere you didn’t plan on, you’ve gotten a more intimate view of this fascinating city than you would from the back of a speeding cab.

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By Nicole D. Troxell

For a split second you may wonder if you've stepped back in time when ambling through the heart of historic Old Louisville in Louisville, Kentucky. Massive Victorian mansions flood the 48 city blocks, obscuring your view of anything but grand estates. Majestic leafy arches frame tree-lined streets, eclipsing the sky and sheltering passersby. The splendor of this neighborhood lures tourists from far ends of the country to see the exciting potpourri of architectural styles and greenery.

You’ll find Kentucky recognized in many travel magazines for its homegrown bourbon and Kentucky Derby. But the lesser known Old Louisville is worth seeing for its awe-inspiring appeal. Italianate, Romanesque, and American Craftsman buildings wed a mélange of Renaissance and Queen Anne designs. But the prevailing style is Victorian Gothic. In fact, Old Louisville boasts the largest district of Victorian houses in the nation. A tour of the neighborhood reveals magnolia, dogwood, and oak trees against facades of stained glass windows, turrets, gables, and red sandstone.

Listed on the National Register of Historic Places is the St. James-Belgravia District, the neighborhood’s zenith of Victorian elegance. Architecture aficionados will discover Venetian and Colonial beauty intermingling with Chateauesque and Beaux-Arts charm. Take a stroll to the middle of St. James to catch sight of the court’s fountain, the pride and joy of the entire neighborhood. Or book a tour inside the gargoyle-adorned Conrad-Caldwell house to view the Richardsonian-style cherry, maple, and oak woodwork.

At the opposite end of the Conrad-Caldwell house is the stunning Pink Palace. A former gambling and gentleman's club, today it attracts visitors for the that give it its lordly spires castle-like ambiance. Gazing up the cerise mansion, you can almost picture Rapunzel letting down her hair.

After reaching the Pink Palace, you stumble upon the nearly hidden Belgravia Court, named for its London, England ancestor. What’s truly unique about the court is its flower-dotted walkway. The pedestrian-only street gives Belgravia a private, tranquil feel. Tourists will be surprised by the stillness of this urban paradise where neighborhood cats laze sleepily about, occasionally approaching strangers for companionship. This architectural marvel is the stuff of storybooks with its arched stairways, heavily ornamented doors, and balconies reminiscent of Romeo and Juliet.

Whether you’re a garden lover or a history buff or you just welcome places off the beaten path, Old Louisville is sure to delight your senses. You can stop by Central Park during summer evenings to sip wine and watch Shakespeare in the Park plays (502-637-4933) or make a trip to the Filson Historical Society (502-635-5083) to learn more about the neighborhood. Be sure to check out the Old Louisville website (http://www.oldlouisville.org/) for information on events, tours, and festivals like the Annual Garvin Gate Blues Festival, the Victorian Ghost Walk, and the Hidden Treasures Garden Tour.

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By Teresa Gardner
ITWPA Member

It took six decades, but my husband can finally check that box, the one to visit all 50 states. And what a fitting finale -- The Last Frontier!

My husband and I recently returned from Gustavus, Alaska, gateway to Glacier Bay National Park. The area is a veritable playground for some of nature’s most awe-inspiring creations. Glacier Bay is home to some of the most active tidewater glaciers on the planet. It didn’t disappoint. The thunderous crack and subsequent calving of icebergs from Margerie Glacier were breathtaking -- if not a little unsettling -- as shards of ice crashed into the bay, causing huge wakes.

Because of its location in the Inside Passage, Glacier Bay is at the convergence of several waterways, which makes for great fishing -- not only for anglers, but for whales, too. Humpbacks migrating from Hawaii embark on a feeding frenzy every summer. We watched in utter raptness and delight as whales suddenly appeared out of the water with mouths agape, gulping fish, slapping their fins, undulating their gargantuan bodies, and flipping their flukes (tails)... or simply spouting. On one excursion, even our guides were a bit nervous when one humpback was showing off a mere fifty yards from our kayaks!

There is no end to the wildlife; we saw bear, mountain goats, porpoises, sea lions (my husband battled a very determined one while reeling in a 42-inch halibut), otters, puffins, various other birds, bald eagles (too many to count), moose... well, at least we saw moose tracks.

Glacier Bay was all glacier and no bay just 250 years ago, but ice has continually receded to reveal this majestic natural wonderland and the charming town of Gustavus, a uniquely beautiful place that’s just plain... unique. The world’s only petroleum museum is located inside a charming 1950’s style gas station. The people are friendly, waving as they pass, and honorable, too. You can play golf and purchase elegant earthenware all on the honor system. Simply place your money in a jar.
 
We stayed at Glacier Bay Country Inn, where hospitality is taken to a new level. It’s more luxury than rustic, with a theater room, library, and hot tub. The proprietors are particularly solicitous and set up day trips, prepared our halibut for travel, and fed us like royalty. The resident gourmet chef prepares sumptuous (fresh) seafood dishes, homemade breads, creative soups and salads... and, oh, what crème brûlée.

Grab a bike at Glacier Bay Country Inn for a spin to town or the beach. Hike the surrounding mountains or rainforest; they’re mystical, magical, and dripping with moss. The forest floor is a spongy four-inch-thick moss carpet. One of the more popular hikes is a well-traveled trail that’s not only shrouded in moss, but in mystery.

On a snowy November night in 1957, several members of the Air National Guard were returning home for the holidays when their small twin-engine plane crashed in some trees at the outskirts of town. The wreckage remains today -- untouched, guarded by century-old hemlock trees and lush vegetation. It’s an emotion-evoking quarter-mile stroll back in time.

There is no shortage of adventures -- recreational, scenic, or culinary -- in Gustavus, Alaska. The fishing, kayaking, whale watching, beachcombing, hiking, exploring, feasting, or curling up with a good book by a window overlooking a flower-filled meadow will keep any traveler entertained and satisfied for days.

The sixty-year wait was worth it!

[photo Alaska 071]

Glacier Bay Country Inn                                                                                                                                                           glacierbayalaska.com                                                                                                                                                                (800) 628-0912

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By Carrie Dahle

Surrounded by the clear turquoise Pacific Ocean, I stood shaking like a leaf -- not out of fear, but from the pure adrenaline surging through me as I tried to balance and keep from tipping over. Every ounce of my being was buzzing with this fusion of excitement and nervousness. Even though I was surrounded by other people enjoying the water, the only two sounds that could be heard were the waves crashing around me and my heart pounding. Peaceful yet exhilarating; it is this combination of tranquility and pure elation that makes paddleboarding a sensation in Waikiki.

Continuing to focus so as not to lose sight of the slightest movement of the board, I noticed something dark in the water beneath me, ominous and about three feet in size, swimming around and around. Unsure of what was obviously not human, I became even more determined not to fall and meet this creature eye to eye. Just as I lowered myself to my knees, up popped the sweetest face I had ever seen. “Crush!” I yelled, having watched Finding Nemo way too many times and not knowing what to say to a sea turtle. He looked up, ducked back down below the board, and continued swimming around. It was at this moment that I realized just how thrilling and unforgettable paddleboarding can be.

Paddleboarding has become a great alternative to surfing for people visiting Waikiki. For years, locals and veteran tourists alike have encouraged friends to learn to surf in these waters because the waves are smaller and they can be ridden for a longer time. The same is true for paddleboarding. The Hawaiian word for paddleboarding is ku hoe he’e nalu which literally means to stand, to paddle, to surf, a wave. And these calmer waters of Waikiki are the perfect place to stand, paddle, and surf the waves, all of which can be done for as little as $25.

Before you can paddle, let alone stand up and surf the waves, you have to get into the water, and for me this meant having my husband carry the board down to the shore. I could have done it myself and would have if I had known I would receive my next visitor’s unsolicited attention.

As I stood contemplating the best way to successfully enter the water, I was greeted by a large local man looking down at this haole girl (me) with scrutinizing eyes. He proceeded to ask me if I had ever paddleboarded before. “No, but it looks fun,” I replied. His annoyed look couldn’t have been any clearer as he shook his head and said, “OK, lady, look out there in the water. See where it is dark? STAY AWAY from there; the water is shallow and that is the reef.” He then told me that unlike surfing, I have to stand with my feet parallel on the board. Next I was instructed on how a paddle was to be used. I am sure he thought he would be out rescuing me within the hour. I listened intently, smiled, and then I was off. Using the tips he shared with me I was quickly standing on the board, paddling around, and riding waves -- enjoying every moment, especially the one with Crush.

When I returned, my “instructor” had relaxed and a smile grazed his face. He laughed and said, “You did much better than the big guy,” pointing to my husband. I guess this little haole girl surprised him. For me, the experience of paddleboarding in Waikiki was unforgettable and one I would recommend to anyone traveling to Hawaii.

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By Sharron Calvin

In southern Colorado there is an artesian hot springs corridor that follows the Sangre de Cristo mountain range into New Mexico. Along this route are four unique mineral springs establishments that offer lodging or camping and are open year round for the tourist passing through or for the locals needing a relaxing soak. This journey starts north of Poncha Pass off Highway 24 leading from the town of Nathrop.

Mount Princeton Hot Springs Resort 

This natural Colorado hot springs is surrounded by towering peaks and is the perfect getaway with every amenity for a family gathering. There are three outdoor pools, a near-Olympic-sized lap pool, a main soaking pool, and a cooler upper pool which includes a 300-foot water slide. If you want a more rustic experience, below the resort is Chalk Creek, where you can regulate the temperature by rearranging the rocks that line the banks. Overnight lodging is available by the cliffside or poolside or in the resort lodge or new cabins located in the woods. The facility boasts a variety of massage and oriental bodywork, a restaurant, and a country store. For more information and reservations, call (719) 395-2447 or visit www.mtprinceton.com.

Orient Land Trust and Valley View Hot Springs
About 50 miles south down Highway 17 is a refuge that is a naturist (clothing optional) rustic recreational facility open to all ages, shapes, and sizes including families, couples, and singles. Off-grid hydroelectric and geothermal is in use throughout the grounds as well as camping sites and a few cabins for overnight stays. The now defunct Orient Mine houses bats, and on warm summer evenings you won’t want to miss witnessing the out flight of 100,000 to 250,000 bats as they emerge from the recesses of the earth. (719) 256-4315 or www.olt.org.    

Joyful Journey Hot Springs Spa
Not far outside the town of Moffat right off Highway 17 is a haven the Native Americans claim “Where Healing Waters Flow” because of the organic qualities of the natural geothermal springs. Three outdoor pools are gravity fed by artesian springs and naturally kept between 98 and 110 degrees. While here, you’ll want to take advantage of their massage and bodywork therapies, body wraps, aromatic facials, or overnight lodging in tipis, yurts, or hotel rooms. For more information, visit www.joyfuljourneyhotsprings.com or call (719) 256-4328.

Sand Dunes Swimming Pool and RV Park
And last but not least, this artesian oasis located in Hooper offers a large thermal swimming pool that is maintained at 98 degrees and a 25-person therapy pool maintained at 107 degrees. There is also a 25-foot kid’s water slide and soaking area along with a grilling and picnic area. Lodging is now available for RVs and tents, as well as three one-room cabins and a family-style travel trailer. Furthermore, a not-so-ordinary, full menu concession stand promises you won’t go hungry. It was voted “The Best Concession Stand in Colorado” by Channel 7 News in Denver, CO. For more information, call (719) 378-2807 or visit www.sanddunespool.com.

By all means, if you are planning to visit the Great Sand Dunes National Park, then any of these hot springs retreats are a must-stop destination to unwind and enjoy the magic of the San Luis Valley in Southern Colorado.
  
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By Charles Christmann
Member ITWPA

Hot, late summer afternoons normally bring a thirst for a nice cold beer; however, in Bernalillo, New Mexico, cravings turn to wine. The three-day New Mexico Wine Festival, held over Labor Day weekend, has drawn tens of thousands of visitors for the past 25 years.

The 2012 event featured twenty of New Mexico’s best wineries. Thirsty customers lined up in long but swiftly-moving queues for free tastes in their souvenir glasses. No matter your preference, you can find a wine to satisfy your palate: Rosé to Chardonnay, Shiraz to Port, Riesling to Zinfandel. If you prefer, the Anasazi-Fields Winery features hand-crafted dry table wines from fruits and berries -- no grape wines there!

More than Wine

Along with wine, you can find New Mexico handicrafts, including glassware, metal sculptures, and jewelry, for purchase. Hungry? Food, ranging from frosty shaved ice and ice cream to sizzling bar-b-que and traditional New Mexico fry bread, is available to help keep the wine buzz away.

The festival draws aficionados from all over the country. I caught up with two “wine fairies” from Oklahoma, Glenda and Tina, roaming the grounds sprinkling their fairy dust -- purple glitter -- on unsuspecting revelers. (Even I was covertly anointed.) This was their seventh annual expedition to the wine festival, and for them, it is a “no miss, must attend” event.

My wife and I purchased several bottles to take home. We found a white table wine, a tasty blend of three wines from the Guadalupe Winery, to be light and fruity -- a great choice for one of our green chili chicken enchilada dinners. The Zinfandel from the Tularosa Vineyards was a bit sweeter, but with a spicy note -- just perfect for sipping before bedtime.

Getting There

Wine lovers can easily find the festival by driving about 13 miles north of Albuquerque on Interstate 25, taking exit 242, and following the signs. Or board the New Mexico Rail Runner train for the Sandoval County 550 station. Free shuttle vans run from the train station to the festival. Parking near the front entrance ranges from $3 to $5 and the admission fee is $12 per person at the gate, including your wine glass ($5 if under 21). Anyone under 21 must be accompanied by a drinking-age companion. Gates open at noon, and tastings end at 6:00 p.m.

If you missed this year’s event, mark your calendars for next year. Bernalillo will be hosting the festival again on September 7-9, 2013.

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By Jennifer B. Graham

They’re located on the F-subway train line at 7th Avenue in the Park Slope neighborhood of Brooklyn, New York. As I hustle -- or rather, huff and puff -- up the subway steps into the daylight, a waft of hamburgers, fries, waffles, and other delicious diner fare permeates the summit as a reward for my effort in the scrum of underground travel. Dizzy’s is not just any old long-counter, greasy spoon diner, it’s a “finer” diner where comfort food is made from the freshest ingredients and presented with flair.   

I enter and the black and white checkered floor tiles reminiscent of a 50’s original diner catch my eye. Canary yellow walls exhibiting eclectic pieces by local artists together with speakers piping contemporary jazz tunes create a casual, funky, inviting atmosphere. Dizzy’s was formerly the Park Towne Coffee Shop-cum-diner, a regular neighborhood haunt for many years. When it came up for sale a decade ago, Matheo Pisciotta and Ben Hoen, then ready to team up in a restaurant venture, snapped it up. The original Coffee Shop sign still has pride of place on the wall behind the counter.

Dizzy’s doesn’t simply churn out the “same-old-same-old” fast-food burger and fries. Their food is pleasing to the eye, reflecting Pisciotta’s artistic talent. The burgers are juicy and the French fries crispy and flavorfully seasoned. Dizzy’s offers an extensive breakfast, lunch, and dinner menu including everything from The Power Breakfast, Dizzy’s Crabcakes, to one of their midweek specials, Bourbon BBQ Salmon. Their established favorites are Tuna MacDaddy, Eggs Ben A Dizz, and Dad’s Favorite Meatloaf. Dizzy’s offers excellent value for the money, which, by the way, is cash only. With Pisciotta’s generous portions, you can get a good feed for $12 plus tax. This is borne out by the place’s being packed to capacity -- on weekends especially.

Both Pisciotta and Hoen have extensive culinary training and experience, having respectively worked in family and numerous restaurants. The duo is as different from each other as Laurel and Hardy. Pisciotta is proud of his Italian heritage, love of food, and portly girth, while Hoen is skinny and has to keep reminding his partner about portion control. “I’m Italian,” laughs Pisciotta. “It’s got to be a lot of food -- a bodanza. Pile it on.” He places his hand on his paunch and adds, “Make people feel it.”

While Pisciotta, who studied art in high school, can produce a beautiful drawing in a flash, Hoen, the analytical one, can whip up a beautiful spreadsheet effortlessly. “I’m the brakes,” says Hoen, and, referring to his partner, “He’s the accelerator.” The buddies complement each other in a balanced relationship. Dizzy’s success has been showcased in New York Magazine and the Food Network’s series, Best of The Best.

I rarely eat waffles, but every time I visit my daughter in Brooklyn, I stop by Dizzy’s for their melt-in-your-mouth waffles freshly unmolded from the waffle iron and served with New York maple syrup and sweet butter. My request for a sprinkle of pecans is gladly obliged. I wash down my meal afterwards with a pretty decent espresso latte and leave wholly satisfied. I always look forward to my next Dizzy’s fix.

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