How to Buy Wine at a Nunnery
By Heather Rath
ITWPA Member
A hidden woman speaks, a turntable in a locked room spins, and suddenly, there is wine! Except this is not a wine store, this is a nunnery.
Five and a half miles from Playas, a coastal beach town in Ecuador, the shy sisters of a local convent produce chemical-free wines reputed to boost your health. Las Madres Carmelitas del Monasterio de Santa Teresa de Playas are the wine-makers, heard but not seen.
Although this is the Sabbath, the Sisters still sell wine. When the taxi drops us off at the convent courtyard after Mass, we look around in bewilderment. We are the only people. The doors to the church are locked. Where do we go? We have heard we must enter through a marked door after using an intercom.
Finally we spy a button near a far door on a long, low side building attached to the church. A handwritten paper sign taped above it reads Press and Hold Here in Spanish, which we do. Suddenly, as if from a distance, a female voice asks what we want. “Comprar el vino por favor” (“to buy wine, please”), we respond. With a loud buzz the lock is disconnected and we open the door into a dark interior. Luckily, a small window sheds some light. Carefully making our way down a short flight of stairs, we see a wooden turntable at waist level in the wall on our right. A female voice on the other side mumbles something. The turntable begins to move, stops, and then circles back to us. A menu with the names of available wines, descriptions, and prices (each about US$8) stops on our side.
To our surprise, 15 t
herapeutic wines are listed, along with the suggestion to drink a small glass of wine after your midday meal.
Our choice is Noni wine, produced from the noni fruit grown here, and recommended for the prevention of cancer cells and hemorrhoids and as an aid in treating insomnia and blood anddigestive problems. Each wine, processed by using different fruits, boasts different health benefits.
After making our choice we spin the turntable back to the waiting sister(s). She spins back our invoice; we spin back our 
money. The final spin carries our wine. The entire transaction is wordless and we never see the nuns.
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The Perfect Destination for Mayan Weddings: Yucatan Peninsula
By Anne Adams
ITWPA Member
The Yucatan peninsula is situated on the southeast coast of Mexico where white powdery sand beaches and crystal clear turquoise waters beckon to young and old alike. Visitors will find a full range of water sports, plentiful golf courses, Maya-inspired spas, an underwater museum, and some of the best restaurants in Mexico. Also found on Mexico’s tree-covered Yucatan peninsula are several Mayan archeological sites -- Chichen Itza, Coba, Edzna, Kabah, Tulum, and Uxmal.
We had been invited to attend a Mayan wedding at the Royal Cancun, an all-inclusive adults-only resort. With the prospect of 82 degree weather, I packed my snorkel, sun block, a cream-colored long summer dress (more about this later) and an extra 4 GB memory card for my digital camera.
The Mayan culture is said to have had its beginnings on August 11, 3114 BC, the date the Mayan world started marking time via the Mayan Long Count Calendar. The end date of the Mayan calendar, December 21, 2012, has caused much controversy, and as a result all things Mayan are experiencing a renewed interest, especially Mayan weddings.
In the time of the ancient Maya, marriages were arranged by a professional atanzahab (matchmaker) in more of a business arrangement than a union of two people in love. As a result, the festivities were less than grand.
Moving forward several thousand years, the Mayans have discarded the practice of arranged marriages and focus on traditional spiritual guidelines considered to be a link to the universe.
Prior to the ceremony, both the Shaman and the couple perform essential traditional rituals. While the wedding site is cleansed at the four cardinal points by the Shaman with the sacred smoke from the Copal tree and the blowing of the conch shell, the couple participates in the ancient Mayans’ Temazcal (sweat lodge) purification ceremony, signifying new beginnings.
SPAzul at the Royal Cancun offers an array of Maya-inspired treatments that friends and family can enjoy in the spirit of purification for the ceremony. A perennial favorite -- the one that had me walking on air for several days -- is the Chicxulub Clay and Banana Leaf Massage. Healing clay from the Maya crater Chicxulub is massaged into the body, which is then wrapped with steamed banana leaves and sealed with light herbal jojoba oil. The spirit is reconnected with the earth forces as the body is re-mineralized.
Mayan music is performed as the couple leaves the Temazcal and leads the procession of guests to the wedding site, where the couple is married inside a circle of friends and family. The wedding party itself is limited to the bride, the groom, and the Shaman.
Unity of all the elements is the core of cosmic weddings. The Mayan wedding ritual altar is created to represent the four cardinal points -- north with red flowers, south with purple flowers, east with yellow flowers and west with white flowers. Candles are added to each cardinal point to represent the four Mayan cosmos gods: Zac Cimi, guarding the west, Hozanek, guarding the south, Hobnil, guarding the east, and Can Tzicnal, guarding the north. In the center of the altar is a sacred candle to bond the couple to the feminine Mother Earth and the masculine Cosmic Energy. And on the altar there are the traditional offerings of corn, beans, rice, and fruit for the gods.
The bride and groom wear simple natural clothing of white or off white, and are barefoot so they can absorb the energy of the ceremony. A Mayan bride traditionally wore a natural cloth skirt and wedding huipil (an elaborate brocaded blouse traditionally sewn by the groom’s mother) and the groom wore an embroidered loincloth decorated with parrot feathers, semiprecious stones and shells. Instead of rings the bride and groom exchange floral crowns during the ceremony to celebrate their union. Wedding guests also wear natural cloth clothing in white or cream, and are preferably barefoot, so they too can share in the spiritual energy created by the ceremony.
For the guests at the wedding we attended, many of whom arrived bearing gifts, there was a feast of turkey cornmeal steamed dumplings, beans, potatoes, and tortillas. The wedding included a four-course luncheon, plus wedding cake and open bar.
The traditional Mayan wedding does not include designer gowns or tuxedos, diamond rings, five-tier wedding cakes or seven-course dinner receptions with an open bar. There are no limos, bridesmaids, guest books or pre-nuptial agreements.
However, in the 21st century the traditional Mayan wedding can be modified, especially when held at an all-inclusive resort. On the Yucatan peninsula, in both Cancun and Playa del Carmen, Real Resorts offers a Traditional Mayan Wedding Package on the beach with a Shaman which is authentic and inspirational. The Shaman and the resort staff can guide you to the perfect balance of ancient and modern elements for your Mayan wedding.
After the wedding festivities (and a foray into Club Coco Bongo for an outrageous high-energy, disco-type show replete with confetti cannons and balloons throughout the audience) we returned to our hotel, The Royal in Cancun, for a relaxing soak in the in-room ocean-view double Jacuzzi.
The next morning, caramel frappacinos in hand, we were off to visit the archaeological site of Tulum. Built in approximately 1200 AD (early post-classic period), the site is about a one-and-a-half-hour drive south of Cancun on Highway 307.
Tulum is a walled city and holds the distinction of being the only Mayan site built on the Caribbean coast. Not really a city at all, but a massive temple complex, Tulum also appears to have been a center of commerce for the Mayans. Since Tulum is the only Mayan city with a beach and natural port, and sits on the most important trade route in Mesoamerica, it is not difficult to imagine that
Tulum was central to all other Mayan cities on the Yucatan peninsula.
In 1994 access to the site was redesigned so that cars and coaches could no longer park adjacent to the ruins, and a parking lot was built about a 10-minute walk away. A shuttle now provides easy access (for a fee) for those unable or unwilling to take the flat and paved pathway. The visitors’ center at the parking lot houses numerous souvenir shops in addition to refreshment stalls, toilets and telephones.
For our last night in Cancun, we stayed at the Royal Playa del Carmen, sister all-inclusive resort property to the Royal Cancun. Playa del Carmen’s claim to fame is that it has blossomed from a sleepy fishing village into a cosmopolitan destination. The expat community continues to grow as more and more visitors return to make their Caribbean dreams a reality.
There are not enough superlatives in the dictionary to describe dinner at the Mediterraneo Restaurant in the hotel. The ambiance is a subdued casual and is well suited to an intimate meal for two or a celebratory party for 10. The wait staff is very accommodating, answering questions about the wine and menu choices with expertise. However, the shining star here is the food! The salad was quite inventive, the prawn and salmon soup was cooked to perfection, the Chicken au
Sherry was both tender and moist with a delicate infusion of marsala, and the Sambuca mousse was light and luscious.
Our excursion to the Yucatan peninsula was over far too quickly. I didn’t even get a chance to use my snorkel!
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Forgetting How to Tell Time at Cheeca Lodge
By Heather Chamberlain
The sun is setting behind us as we make a sharp left turn into the hotel entrance, and we are immediately transported into a tropical oasis. We are greeted by rich emerald plants and arched palm trees that seem to bow to us as we drive down the narrow path. Just an hour ago we were wedged in traffic, being hypnotized by the constant glare of flashing red lights. Now we are being guided by the tiki torch lights that line
This historic resort sits on 27 acres of ocean-front property in Islamorada, known as the “Village of Islands,” in the Florida Keys. Cheeca Lodge sets itself apart from neighboring establishments by taking the traditional “keys” style to the next level. The interior décor has an elegant West Indies motif of dark mahogany furnishings, palm tree lamps and exotic flowers. The exterior design is of interwoven paths that lead to secret lagoons with inviting waterfalls.
Luxury radiates from every inch of the property, starting with the automatic French doors that sweep you into the lobby with its panoramic view of the ocean. Welcome to your tropical playground! By the time you are done sipping your complimentary champagne at check-in you will have forgotten all about work and the stress you have left behind. Within minutes of your arrival you will be transformed into a deep state of utter bliss and relaxation.
Cheeca Lodge boasts all the amenities and activities you need so you never have to leave the resort. It is well-equipped for both idle and active visitors. If you are there to rest and unwind, then the ocean-side pools, secluded lagoons, and lavish spas are at your service. Most guests tend to gravitate towards the tiki hut that offers a full service bar and a picturesque view of the ocean. You could spend hours there listening to the chatter of seagulls, sipping creative cocktails, and snacking on the fresh catch of the day.
If you are feeling guilty about your multiple afternoon naps by the pool, you can walk a few steps to the rectangular hut on the beach that offers water activities including sunset cruises, eco-tours, boat charters, kayaking, and fishing. You can also occupy yourself with the resort’s 9-hole golf course or play a game of tennis surrounded by an audience of jungle-like plants. Don’t worry if you forgot your racquet -- the resort rents out all necessary equipment at no charge.
Cheeca Lodge has mastered the art of relaxation. This quickly became apparent to us as we sat at the tiki bar and chatted with a couple from England who had been at the resort for almost a week. When I asked for the time, one of them looked at me with a blank stare and replied, “We haven’t looked at our watches all week. I think we forgot how to tell time.” Now that is a sign of a good vacation. 
You can find out more about Cheeca Lodge Resort & Spa at www.cheeca.com. Standard rooms start at $284 and are not inclusive of the resort fee of $39 per day plus a 12.5% tax per room.
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Maui -- The Ziplining is Great and They Have That Big Mountain, Too
By Bob Starink
What do you choose to do when you only have two days on the island of Maui? We decided on ziplining and riding Haleakala.
The ziplining industry has exploded in recent years. There are now ziplines in nearly every holiday destination in the world, and what was the longest zipline on Earth last week may have that title usurped this week. There are four zipline companies on Maui alone. We chose Flyin Hawaiian, located in Wailuku, near Kahului.
Flyin Hawaiian features eight separate lines spanning close to 13,123 feet and attaining speeds of up to 50 mph, with the full experience taking about five hours. The cost per person is $200.
The guides are very competent and highly amusing, adding to the fun of the day. Afraid of heights? You really don’t notice it, and the way the harness has you sitting upright, there isn’t any fear of falling either. You fly along, feeling exhilaration as you enjoy the rides and the views, with the mountain valleys to the right and the Maui coastline to the left. One of the shorter lines is traversed backwards. The longest line flies over three ridges.
See www.flyinhawaiianzipline.com for more details.
Haleakala is an extinct volcano towering over the island. Maui Downhill is one of several companies offering guided bike tours of the mountain. Their signature sunrise tour is $149 per person and includes breakfast, bike and accessories, entry fees and hotel pick-up and return.
As we were staying in Ka’anapali on the northwest coast of Maui, we had to be picked up for the Haleakala sunrise tour at 2:30 a.m., so very little sleep was had. Company mini-buses converge in the darkness from all over the island at their base office in Kahului for orientation and a hot drink.
Soon a convoy departs for the silent climb to the Haleakala summit 10,000 feet above sea level.
We were warned about its being cool at that altitude, but nothing could prepare us for the icy cold when we exited the bus. For this tour you have to be dressed for bike riding, so it’s not practical to bundle up too heavily, but the tour wind jackets weren’t helping much.
Arriving way too early, we then had to try to avoid hypothermia for over an hour before anything happened. Fortunately the park kiosk opened soon after we arrived, so we were able to take some cover inside. Even though there was no heating in the kiosk, at least it was out of the chilling breeze.
As the sunrise progressed, I would rush in and out of the shop retreat to take photos. The sun rises over the crater, which is all great unless you want to take a picture inside the crater itself.
Then there’s a giant sun blinding the scene.
When everyone is done snapping photos, the bus takes us all to another lookout before descending to 6,500 feet (outside the National Park) where the bike ride begins.
Safety is not an issue, with guides riding at the front and at the rear and the company bus at the tail controlling the traffic. There’s no huffing and puffing as the ride is downhill all the way along the switchbacks that lead down the mountainside. The ride is scenic and fun. Stops along the way are made for photos.
The whole tour is eight to nine hours, so you get back to your hotel before noon, allowing some time for shopping or swimming.
There are other biking options at other times of the day, with and without a trip to the summit, so if you don’t feel like getting only three hours sleep or freezing in the pre-dawn temperatures, Maui
Downhill still has the tour for you. See www.mauidownhill.com for full details.
If you go:
There are some impressive resorts on Maui. For the economy-minded, consider the comfortable Ka’anapali Ocean Inn with rooms starting at $100. Looking for a place to eat? The Melting Pot in Lahaina is highly recommended. It’s a fondue restaurant and the full three courses of cheese dipping, main meal (where meats and vegetables are cooked in a special broth at the table) and chocolate fondue dessert are an almost-impossible challenge to get through.
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Boaties Bonanza
By John Kingston
Hobart, the capital of Australia’s island state, is a small, comfortable city (pop. 250,000). Hobart enjoys a benign, temperate climate, and has the highest recorded annual sunshine hours of any Australian capital bar one. The weather is controlled mainly by the seas surrounding the island. Mt. Wellington, at a tad over 4000 feet, is an imposing backdrop. The summit is reachable by car in about half an hour from the city center. Be warned, though -- it can get a little chilly.
Also about half an hour away, at Franklin, is the Wooden Boat Building School on the banks of the Huon River. Boats are built mainly on commission using iconic timbers found only in Tasmania. The world-renowned huon pine, celery top pine, king billy and other Tasmanian timbers are revered by boat builders.
Also south of Hobart are the extensive, enticing, but little-known cruising waters of the D’Entrecasteaux Channel, embracing the wide estuaries of the Derwent and Huon rivers, all protected by the 33-mile-long Bruny Island to the east. In fact, if you choose to, you could cruise up the Huon for about 25 miles and visit the Wooden Boat Building Centre that way. Why not fire up Google Earth, type in Hobart, Tasmania, and then broaden your view a bit? You’ll see what I mean.
Every two years, Hobart hosts the Hobart Wooden Boat Festival, the biggest and arguably the best -- certainly in the southern hemisphere -- boat show. Now, you are too late for the 2011 festival (Feb. 11, 12, 13, 14) but give thought to arranging to visit Hobart for the next festival in 2013. It is not too soon to start preparing.
This year more than 100,000 visitors saw over 500 wooden crafts -- local, interstate, and international -- ranging in size from the smallest dinghy to ships such as the 174-foot Princess Iluka, built from huon pine in Hobart but now based in Brisbane, Queensland, and the recently restored steam yacht Preana. There are boat building displays, historical movies, models, and trade and equipment arenas, plus plenty of food and refreshments.
While looking at one outstanding example of the shipwrights’ skills my wife made the comment, “That is too good to put in the water; it should be in someone’s lounge room.” I could do nothing but agree. Such is the quality of workmanship on display.
Over the four days of the festival there are ongoing programs to keep everybody entertained. In the dirty boat building competition, teams are given the raw materials to build, paint, and sail a boat over the four days. The culmination of this activity is to triumphantly (or otherwise) sail your masterpiece in Constitution Dock on the last day.
Amazingly, due to enthusiastic local and government sponsorship, entry is free for all four days, which is a real bonus. There are different activities programmed for each day, so you can easily occupy yourself for the length of the festival.
Seldom can one see such a fleet of wooden vessels so easily in such a pleasant spot.
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